X-C Ski Interlude
Snow closed down much the GSMNP on 2/26. I had agreed to do a tunnel hike with others on 2/27; however, since U.S. 441 to Cherokee was closed (we needed it to get to our starting point at the Tunnel near Bryson City NC) that hike too was cancelled. On 2/27 I was able to talk Manfred Grote into XC-skiing with me; on 2/28 Joel Morris accompanied Manfred and me (both Manfred and Joel are in our hiking group).
Feb. 28:
I picked up Manfred at the Lowes Parking lot (TN 168 & US 441 intersection) and we arrived at the Sugarlands Visitor Center (SVC) a ~13:00; U.S. 441 had just opened (it’s the N-S route through the Park from SVC to the Oconaluftee VC near Cherokee NC). Normally I ski starting at Newfound Gap on the wintertime-closed road to Clingmans Dome; however, Manfred had not used his equipment since he lived in Northern Indiana and wanted to check it out. There was also the 30 min. drive to the Gap and 30 min. return to SVC.
I drove to Elkmont for we figured Little River Trail would be OK; this follows what used to be a road when the Elkmont community was privately owned. Unfortunately much of the good snow cover had melted when we arrived (low elevation and sun). We skied only ~2 miles in and then returned; we even had to carry our skis on much of the return trek. That is Manfred in the picture. I was glad that Manfred was game for skiing again Friday, and that Joel would go with us.
Feb. 29:
Today Manfred and Joel picked me up 10:00 at Lowes. Although U.S. 441 had closed overnight, it was due more to icing of melt and was open when we arrived shortly before 11:00. The temperature was 44 degree when we left; by the time we got to Newfound Gap it was 28 degrees. I was on the trail (i.e., Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome Rd) ~11:30; because I had my boots on and there was quite a wind chill there, I skied to a wind-sheltered area to wait for them.
The snow conditions were truly excellent! Even though the snow was not much more than 6 inches there, there was a dusting that even made it easy if you skied in the tracks of backpackers. (The last time that I had skied the 7+ miles to the top, I was breaking trail and the snow was too deep to follow the footpaths of backpackers.) When Manfred reached me, he was elated about the conditions; although he has lived in Knoxville several years, he had never realized that XC-ski conditions could be this good in the Park and had never tried to ski here. I went ahead a little and caught a young back packer from Alabama; he planned to take Forney Creek Trail from the Dome to Campsite 68. After a couple of nights out he planned to return to his car at Newfound Gap; I hope that he is doing OK for the temp really gets cold at night. In skiing in the past, I have only seen backpackers going to or from the Appalachian Trail at Clingmans Dome.
I waited for Manfred and Joel to see when they wanted to eat lunch and how far they wanted to go; by this time I had put my parka in my bag. Manfred was still elated about the ski conditions and he wanted to go on; Joel seemed to be having a problem (to be explained later). Shortly after we reached Fork Ridge trailhead (2.5 mi. from our start), we came to a 0.75 mi. section that actually descends (this is really a bummer when one skis to the Dome and then on the descent you hit this “up-section”). Manfred wanted to keep on going so we did; however, we had soon lost Joel. I thought it was best to go back (we had probably gone ~3.5 mi. at this point). When we reached Joel we found that the sole of one of his boots was detached up to the instep; we went a little further “up” to a slightly sheltered spot and ate lunch.
After lunch I went ahead and really made good time; I went almost as fast as I did on my solo trip 3 weeks ago when there was a crust on the snow and one seldom made tracks. With the exception of that trip, usually one has to ski (i.e., move the legs) going down; today for many stretches I just used my arms with an occasional shift step that I use to accelerate. When I got back to Manfred’s Jeep I put on my parka and had some trail mix. A couple families came to play with their children in the snow; this is typical in the first ¼ mile or so. The wait seemed quite long and I was about to retrace my steps when Manfred arrived; he told me that Joel was moving slowly because he had totally lost the sole of one boot and thus was stepping with one foot and skiing with the other. I tied Joel’s hiking boots around my neck and was ready to go back to him when he came around the corner near our starting point.
Manfred and I had a great time; Joel enjoyed it but to a lesser extent. Because I had loaned my wife my digital camera today (she needed it for her real estate business), I could not take any pictures. Although it was cloudy and even snowed a smidgeon as re were driving down from Newfound Gap, there were some unique views. Today I could see cars on the switchbacks of U.S. 441 in NC; I do not think that they had ever been that distinct previously.
Feb. 28:
I picked up Manfred at the Lowes Parking lot (TN 168 & US 441 intersection) and we arrived at the Sugarlands Visitor Center (SVC) a ~13:00; U.S. 441 had just opened (it’s the N-S route through the Park from SVC to the Oconaluftee VC near Cherokee NC). Normally I ski starting at Newfound Gap on the wintertime-closed road to Clingmans Dome; however, Manfred had not used his equipment since he lived in Northern Indiana and wanted to check it out. There was also the 30 min. drive to the Gap and 30 min. return to SVC.
I drove to Elkmont for we figured Little River Trail would be OK; this follows what used to be a road when the Elkmont community was privately owned. Unfortunately much of the good snow cover had melted when we arrived (low elevation and sun). We skied only ~2 miles in and then returned; we even had to carry our skis on much of the return trek. That is Manfred in the picture. I was glad that Manfred was game for skiing again Friday, and that Joel would go with us.
Feb. 29:
Today Manfred and Joel picked me up 10:00 at Lowes. Although U.S. 441 had closed overnight, it was due more to icing of melt and was open when we arrived shortly before 11:00. The temperature was 44 degree when we left; by the time we got to Newfound Gap it was 28 degrees. I was on the trail (i.e., Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome Rd) ~11:30; because I had my boots on and there was quite a wind chill there, I skied to a wind-sheltered area to wait for them.
The snow conditions were truly excellent! Even though the snow was not much more than 6 inches there, there was a dusting that even made it easy if you skied in the tracks of backpackers. (The last time that I had skied the 7+ miles to the top, I was breaking trail and the snow was too deep to follow the footpaths of backpackers.) When Manfred reached me, he was elated about the conditions; although he has lived in Knoxville several years, he had never realized that XC-ski conditions could be this good in the Park and had never tried to ski here. I went ahead a little and caught a young back packer from Alabama; he planned to take Forney Creek Trail from the Dome to Campsite 68. After a couple of nights out he planned to return to his car at Newfound Gap; I hope that he is doing OK for the temp really gets cold at night. In skiing in the past, I have only seen backpackers going to or from the Appalachian Trail at Clingmans Dome.
I waited for Manfred and Joel to see when they wanted to eat lunch and how far they wanted to go; by this time I had put my parka in my bag. Manfred was still elated about the ski conditions and he wanted to go on; Joel seemed to be having a problem (to be explained later). Shortly after we reached Fork Ridge trailhead (2.5 mi. from our start), we came to a 0.75 mi. section that actually descends (this is really a bummer when one skis to the Dome and then on the descent you hit this “up-section”). Manfred wanted to keep on going so we did; however, we had soon lost Joel. I thought it was best to go back (we had probably gone ~3.5 mi. at this point). When we reached Joel we found that the sole of one of his boots was detached up to the instep; we went a little further “up” to a slightly sheltered spot and ate lunch.
After lunch I went ahead and really made good time; I went almost as fast as I did on my solo trip 3 weeks ago when there was a crust on the snow and one seldom made tracks. With the exception of that trip, usually one has to ski (i.e., move the legs) going down; today for many stretches I just used my arms with an occasional shift step that I use to accelerate. When I got back to Manfred’s Jeep I put on my parka and had some trail mix. A couple families came to play with their children in the snow; this is typical in the first ¼ mile or so. The wait seemed quite long and I was about to retrace my steps when Manfred arrived; he told me that Joel was moving slowly because he had totally lost the sole of one boot and thus was stepping with one foot and skiing with the other. I tied Joel’s hiking boots around my neck and was ready to go back to him when he came around the corner near our starting point.
Manfred and I had a great time; Joel enjoyed it but to a lesser extent. Because I had loaned my wife my digital camera today (she needed it for her real estate business), I could not take any pictures. Although it was cloudy and even snowed a smidgeon as re were driving down from Newfound Gap, there were some unique views. Today I could see cars on the switchbacks of U.S. 441 in NC; I do not think that they had ever been that distinct previously.
posted by Wendell Liemohn at 2:23 PM
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