Post 2nd 900 Hike #28: Rabbit Creek

Bob Bolinger, in essence a professional photographer in addition to being a hiking buddy, had gotten a glimpse of the Lady Slipper flowers on Rabbit Creek this past Wed. and wished to take his best photographic equipment (i.e., tripod, big camera, etc.) for what may be a chance of a lifetime to get some pictures far beyond those that he could get with his camera phone. Bob has come over to my home in Louisville from his in Sevierville to help me with several projects; finally I had a chance to reciprocate a tad.

I met him at the entrance to the Foothills Parkway in Walland; from there he drove to the Rabbit Creek trailhead near the Abrams Creek Ranger Station. Amongst other things that I had forgotten, I had not brought a towel so crossing Abrams Creek was no longer an option. About one mile into the hike we saw many Lady Slippers; even I, not a true flower appreciator, realized that this was a unique find. There was even a white one amongst all the pink ones. a non-flower afficiendo,  pictures ~1-mile into Rabbit Creek; I planned to go on from there and at least hike I left Bob at this point, not sure what my quest was.

The first picture was taken at Coon Bluff, ~1.75 miles into the hike. It was at this point ~one year ago that we were waiting for a new hiker to our group who had taken a Beta Blocker prior to hiking the uphill portion of  Rabbit Creek; hiking with him again is on my contraindicated list. I took this picture at Coon Bluff while looking in a Southerly direction.

I then reached the first trail junction; actual trail mileage was 2.7 but we had started from the parking lot which probably added 0.2 mi. At this juncture it did not seem feasible to go any further for none of the mileage would apply to my 3rd map.

About 11:45 I saw Bob right adjacent to the trail for that was where the Lady Slippers were; if Bob sends me one of his pictures I will substitute it for my poor rendition. To get the types of pictures that Bob gets he really works at it; see the next picture of him crawling on the earth to ensure everything was just right.

                                                                                                                                                                

Again, Bob takes great pictures; however, he also really works at it.

My hiking distance was only 5.42 mi., Moving Avg speed was 2.6 mph, with 1185' total ascent, and maximum elevation attained was 2076'. Despite it being a relatively short hike, it was a good one and a great day. We stopped at the Back Porch for a sandwich and Bob insisted on treating me. Although I do not think that the Reubens at the Back Porch are as good as they are at the Mountain Lodge in Gatlinburg, it was still a good sandwich and culminated a nice hike.

Post 2nd 900 Hike #27: Mt Sterling 1.8, Mt Sterling Ridge 1.4, Swallow Fork 4.0, Big Creek 5.1

Believe this hike was planned for Phil Antonelli's first 900; quite possibly Ellie Doughty needed it for her 3rd. Ellie chose to complete the AT after her first 900 and then primarily helped others achieve their 1st 900 with apparently no designs on obtaining a 2nd or 3rd one. I too primarily helped others and then finally decided to complete a 2nd 900, and did so last summer. At this juncture and with my left foot problem, I am not committed to completing a 3rd 900; however, today I knocked off sections of Mount Sterling and Swallow Fork trails that I needed for it.

I drove to Bob Bolinger's in Sevierville; Janetta Baker joined us shortly and Bob drove us over to the Eastern end of Big Creek Trail (where our hike would end). There we met 10 other hikers and proceeded to Mt. Sterling Gap in 3-vehicles. At ~09:05 most of our group of 13 set out on Mt. Sterling Trail; though only 1.8 mi. in length, it has ~2,000' of gain. I got a late start for I asked Richard Ryburn to show me how to correct something on my GPS; however, I eventually caught BZ who was leading. That was a good workout for I had to push to catch him; nevertheless, do not believe my HR ever exceeded 140. 

 

It was then 1.4 mi. on Mount Sterling Ridge Trail; there was ~500' of decline in the 1.4 mi. section that we traversed. On Swallow Fork we had ~2,250' of decline by the time that we reached Big Creek Trail. McGinty Creek (pictured) was ~1.25 miles shy of its completion. It was here that five of us (BZ, Phil, Nancy and Jim Carmin) ate lunch.

Big Creek was 5.1 mi. with ~1,000' of decline; thus it was a very easy trail so I decided to cruise on it and towards the end went ahead by myself. 

It was 15:08 when I reached the parking lot just below this sign. My GPS indicated that I had hiked 12.9 mi. and that my moving average speed was 2.9 mph (total ascent was 1,885'). Although my left foot did not particularly enjoy the hike, I was somewhat pleased with my performance. Believe my new New Balance boots (size 13 4E), coupled with "good" scheduling of taking an anti-inflammatory originally prescribed for my neck (it perhaps was also responsible for negating any symptoms from yesterday's  root canal), will continue to provide adequate comfort that may enable me to keep pushing myself on future hikes.

BZ, Jim, Nancy, and Phil finished about the same time. Originally BZ was going to take me back to our start and I would drive Ellie's vehicle back to our finish point; however, Phil suggested that he do it since he had also ridden with Ellie. Thus BZ drove Phil back to our starting point at Mt Sterling trail; then BZ proceeded to his home in Gatlinburg. Jim and Nancy drove their own SUV to Knoxville from this point. Soon Bob and Janetta arrived, and we proceeded to Bob's home in Sevierville; I arrived home in Louisville ~18:00. 

It was a good hike; despite my foot problems I was pleased with today's hike.     

Post 2nd 900 Mile Hike #26: Crib Gap, Turkeypen Ridge, Schoolhouse Gap, & Chestnut Top

This is a hike that Bob Bolinger planned; because it was a relatively low elevation hike, there was a good chance that some Spring Flowers might be seen. Janetta Baker went with us; BZ Lane's involvement with a tour bus company precluded his hiking today. Although I had planned to pick Janetta at Food Lion, she wanted to drive her new GMC SUV; we met Bob in Townsend and proceeded in two vehicles to the Townsend Y. Janetta's vehicle was left there and we proceeded to Cades Cove in Bob's SUV.

It was ~0920 that we were on Crib Gap Trail (1.6)  after a few steps on Anthony Creek we met an interesting fellow on horseback cominng off of Anthony Creek after a slight detour around recent windfalls. This fellow had quite a saddle which he purchased when he worked on a ranch in Wyoming; of even more surprise his horse had had an undistinguished career as a race horse. I believe it was on Turkeypen Ridge (3.4) that we met Dan Lawson; it was not until he introduced himself (he thought he knew me) that I recognized him. It was through him that I first became a volunteer at Sugarlands Visitor Center in 2005, several months before I started hiking in the GSMNP that June. On Turkeypen Ridge we met four men from Alabama on horses; only one had the more obese build (he wasn't too bad) of most all horseback riders that I have seen in the past in the GSMNP; this guy was particularly loquacious and we enjoyed talking with him and his cohorts. (Up to this point in time I have very seldom talked to horseback riders.) After we ate lunch the four on horseback caught up with use; however, their route then changed from ours as we went on Chestnut Top Trail (4.3). Shortly after we got on this trail we met a couple from the Chicago area going in the opposite direction (i.e., they planned an in-and-out on Chestnut Top). The latter trail had ~1,100' of gain; the other trails were relatively flat. It was on the latter that I decided to push it a bit; however, I waited too long for most of the remaining trail was downhill.

It was 1440 when arrived at Janetta's SUV after we descended on Chestnut Top down to the Townsend Y Along our final ~0.5 mi. we met numerous individuals who were more flower lovers and photographers than hikers.. I hope to add a few pictures to this blog; however, my software is giving me problems in that on the last three hikes it is combining new pictures with older ones and not pigeon holing each to a dated file.

My GPS data indicated that I had hiked 10.9 miles, moving average speed was 2.7 mph, maximum elevation was 2,370', and elevation gained was 1,313'. I have previously reported on problems I have been having with my left foot (i.e., a bunion problem leading to undue damage intertarsal articular cartilage. The toes were more comfortable with the jump to a size 13 EEEE as reported on last hike; however, the gel pad between toes 3-4 really helped. The intertarsal pain is still there; however, it was nominal today in part because I am taking my neck anti-inflammatory more in timing with my hike. Aging is hell.

Post 2nd 900 Hike #25: Jakes Creek

Bob Bolinger and I had considered hiking Alum Cave to Le Conte (one of our favorite winter hikes) but U.S. 441 was closed. Bob then came up with this venture: Jakes Creek out of Elkmont to Jakes Gap and then explore taking a manway off Panther Creek back to Elkmont. We met at our usual meeting place in Sevierville; although it was my turn to drive, Bob graciously did so because my double vision problem has been more persistent of late.

When we arrived in Elkmont I realized that my vest, light jacket, and gloves were not there.  (As I expected when Bob returned me to my Outback, this gear was in my front seat and all I unloaded was that gear behind my back seat--dumb me but I was able to adapt with no problem.) Bob suggested that we put on our Stabilicer Ice Cleats before starting on Jakes Creek; that was a most wise decision. Although there was just a little snow on the ground at Elkmont (elevation ~2,300'), as we went up Jakes Creek the snow accumulation increased. At Campsite 27 a father and son were attempting to build a fire for they planned to stay overnight. When we reached Jakes Gap (elevation ~4,100') the snow depth was ~6" (we did not set any speed records). Because the manway that we had planned to take was not discernible, we decided that the more prudent thing to do was to retrace our steps after eating lunch. The first two pictures were taken by Bob at Jakes Gap.

Before we left this area a young man came up Jakes Creek; his father was ~15-30 min. behind him. The son (from Chicago) planned to meet two others coming off the AT; he was not dressed for long waits--hopefully they were able to make connections quickly.  On our way down Jakes Creek we met a few others; the father and son were still trying to start a fire; I imagine that they eventually hiked out.

Bob took this picture of me crossing a stream 1-2 miles from the finish (on the way down). Ironically I had taken one of him at the same point on the way up; my picture was not as good. (There was also a stream crossing that was not too difficult, particularly, if one had a little experience stepping on moss covered rock without slipping.)

Although Jakes Creek Trail is only ~3.3 mi.,  there is a little walk to the parking lot in Elkmont. My GPS indicated that our hike was 7.49 mi. in length including this "non-trail" distance on both ends of the hike.  (For those not familiar with the GSMNP, Elkmont was a village serviced by rail prior to the Park acquiring all property in the 1920's and 1930's; several of the homes will be restored and serve some Park function; others will be bull dozed.) Although we saw 12 others on Jakes Creek trail (2 on way up & 10 on way down), there were countless individuals walking around in Elkmont. With our packs and trekking poles, some thought that we were good ones to provide answers to their questions; it was nice to be of assistance to those that asked.

In essence it was a neat hike and Bob and I, even though we have hiked thousands of miles together, never run out of things to discuss. Although the hike was shorter than usual, it was quite OK for me since I was breaking in new boots. I had been using LL Bean Treka boots (made in Europe) since beginning hiking in 2005, however, I decided to give New Balance's 998 model a try because I (1) have been using New Balance walking shoes for many years and (2) thought that their 4E-width option might better accommodate my deformed left (bunion) foot that has been giving me problems. (I contend that the genesis of this problem was a pinched plantar nerve occurring in a 1958 FB-game when we (Norfolk Tars) played at Quantico Marine Base.)

X-C Skiing on Road to Clingmans Dome

My wife Meredith and I had downhill skied in Colorado and along with two sons we  X-C skied on groomed trails in Minnesota and Wisconsin. Starting with our first year in Tennessee (1978), the four of us X-C would ski nominally on the Road to Clingmans Dome and also a couple of times at Roane Mtn. State Park. After our sons left Meredith and I continued X-C skiing on Clingmans Dome road, and also used frequent flyer miles for a X-C ski venture at Thunderbay, Ontario. Shortly after this my wife's interest waned and I decided that skiing to Clingmans Dome was now an appropriate objective. The first time I tried I passed this young dude (think he just wanted me to break trail); however, I had to give up because I did not bring any fluid (very dumb) and eating the abundant snow (my first ever trial) did not work. Guess I was relatively close to the Dome for when I met him on my way down he asked me if I made it; I told him I turned around only because I did not have any fluid. He graciously gave me a bottle of some electrolyte mix; I really think that he felt that he owed me for breaking trail for him in relatively deep snow.

The next time (again solo) I made it to the Dome; I also made it on a few trips in subsequent years but all were solo. After one of those trips Meredith laid down the law and said something to the effect that "an old man should not be skiing to Clingmans Dome alone." My recruiting attempts were not fruitful. In March 2009 I decided I had to make the trip solo again and fortunately Meredith was to busy to ask about it. (That trip incidentally was the first entry to what became my hiking blog; I published it 5-28-2005, about one month prior to my starting hiking.) In 2011 I loaned my old X-C ski equipment to Ramsay Roth; he (1) could try X-C skiing on Cove Mtn trail which was very close to his home and (2) since he is the strongest hiker in our 250+ hiking club, I knew that he could ski to Clingmans Dome. Ramsay bought new equipment but I was out of the loop in Jan-Feb 2011 due to a neck injury; in the winter of 2011-2012 we had no snow. Earlier this winter Ramsay got in some X-C skiing in New England. Ironically in March 2013 Backpacker placed the Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome road as one of the top three winter hiking, snow-shoeing, or X-C skiing ventures in the U.S. Although it was looking bleak here, we got good snow in the first week of March. Ramsay and I, plus Doug Jerger (ex-marathon runner and a strong hiker-skier) planned to ski on March 7 but U.S. 441 was closed due to snow. Although Doug decided to keep a pre-scheduled game of golf, Ramsay's checking suggested enough snow for Friday, March 8th.

Ramsay and I met at SVC ~0750: I drove to Newfound Gap and we got started ~0830. Although I had skied the first part Clingmans Dome Road countless times and all 7.7 miles many times, Ramsay had never skied on any part of this road. Thus I led to break trail (it was virgin snow) all the way up; I also led on the way down since Ramsay could then see how I handled (or mishandled) any challenges. Snow base on the road was so-so but particularly poor where the road was subject to the sun on switchbacks; however, the more shady areas were OK. Ramsay had had very little experience "on downhills" and was not sure how fast one would coast; on the other hand I was quite familiar with the nuances of this venture. However, although I had reached Dome solo many times since starting skiing in the GSMNP in 1979, I had not done so since 2009. (In 2010 we had plenty of snow but US 441 never opened until P.M.'s and that is too late to start this venture; in 2011 I was unable to ski because of a neck injury, and in 2011-2012 there was never enough snow.)

Because I forgot to charge my camera battery, I took very few pictures; Ramsay shot this one of me on the way up. You'll note that I had a stocking cap and big gloves on; shortly thereafter I switched to a ball-cap and my light SWIX ski gloves.



When we reached the Fork Ridge trail sign (also an AT access point and 4.2 miles from my Suburu, I advised Ramsay that we would shortly have ~1.3 mi. of  "down" on this venture even as we climbed the mountain. He found that the "down traverses" were easy to handle; so then as I had hoped, he wanted to continue on to the Dome. We arrived at the the Dome parking lot ~noon; I suggested that we ski to the far end past the rest rooms and to the paved steps that lead to a small visitor center and to the observation deck ~0.5 mi. beyond the latter. That is where I took this picture of Ramsay.



Although we could ski to this point, most of the parking lot was devoid of snow. The next picture is one that Ramsay shot from Clingmans Dome; it is the background on my desktop.

Although normally the trip down from the Dome would be relatively easy (except for the up-stretch just prior to the Fork Ridge trail head), snow conditions were such that it was not really a piece of cake. Those switch backs that receive a lot of sun were sticky (and sometimes absent of snow); however, those in the shade immediately put the skier in high gear. This is where I had a problem; the articular cartilage damage to my talonavicular joint in my left foot (caused by my bunion) presented extreme pain in "pressing-off" with my left foot (on many occasion when our track from trip up veered right, on the way down I had to go straight--much like a semi making a run-off when they have too much speed for a curve.)

We arrived at my vehicle ~14:00. Our total mileage (going to the end of the Dome parking lot) was about 15.8 mi. round trip.  Ramsay and I estimated that this X-C ski venture was every bit as difficult as most 22-23 mi. hikes that we have taken in the GSMNP. I do not think that I had ever taken a rest-breather going down from Clingmans Dome previously; rather than attribute this to being 4 years older (with a much older L-foot), I think that it was the snow conditions that made it more difficult. Some hikes and X-C ski ventures are flat-out fun and they often present a sense of accomplishment. Although its difficulty precluded every mile trekked being fun (e.g., having to go up hill ~1.3 mi. on way down), for an old man the sense of accomplishment far overrides all negatives. Ramsay--thank you; I couldn't or wouldn't have done it without you.

Although my pictures for today's hike do not present great snow scenes, please see my blog entry for 5-28-05 (my original blog which served as a bases for my eventual hiking blog) and my blog entry for 2-19-10--it has the best Clingmans Dome Road pictures that I have ever taken even though time precluded making it to the Dome. 

Post 2nd 900 Hike #24: Off Trail + SM & HG

Today's hike was a manway and an off-trail hike that Bob Bolinger, BZ Lane, and I did 3/1/12; this time Ellie Doughty and Janetta Baker joined us. I met Ellie and Janetta at Food Lion at 0730; Ellie drove and we met Bob and BZ at the Laurel Falls Parking Lot at 0825. All 5 of us proceeded in Ellie's van to our starting point off of US 441; we started our hike ~0900.

My cohorts from L-R: Bob, Janetta, Ellie, and BZ.  

The second picture is called "The Pulpit" (or some facsimile). I asked Janetta to climb up the vertical side facing us to get a better perspective of this often photographed rock but she declined.



Shortly after this we intended to head WSW off trail; there seemed to be many more blow-downs than there were when Bob, BZ, and I had done this hike last fall. Back then Bob, who really knows how to use a compass and read a NG map, would frequently ask to see my GPS, with info from it and his compass and map, was able to keep us in relatively straight bearing perpendicular to Sugarland Mountain Trail (SMT) despite our zig-zags up the mountain. This time I am not sure what happened; the climb up this mountain and the relatively short descent to reach the trail took us ~3 hrs; moreover I'll swear that we covered much more distance (at times going backwards) and our moving average speed was only 1.3 mph on this phase of the hike (last March it was ~1.85). On any bona fide trail our mph is very seldom if ever less than 2.5 mph and I have taken hikes when it has been over 3.5 mph (e.g., short trails such as Schoolhouse Gap).

We ate lunch on SMT. Both Ellie and I are working on our 3rd maps. (I should mention that she has also completed the entire Appalachian Trail--she obviously is one strong hiker). Because she needed the section of SMT 3.1 mi. in a SE direction to Rough Creek trail (that added 6.2 mi. to our hike--at the time we thought we were ~1 mi. closer to Rough Creek), I went with her. Thus are cohorts could hike to Bob's SUV at Laurel Falls parking area; Janetta would then take Bob and BZ in Ellie's van to Bob's SUV at our starting point on US 441, and then she would wait for Ellie and me at the Huskey Gap trail head on US 441 (that was 1.1 mi. shorter than if we hiked to the Laurel Falls parking lot). I wanted Ellie to lead and set the pace and she set a good one. Not sure how long Janetta had to wait for us but she's a good sport. My GPS indicated that Ellie and I hiked 11.04 mi. Our time spent on the ~2 mi. of manway and off-trail took about as much time as the ~9 mi. on SMT and Huskey Gap trails. For today's hike our total ascent 3,038' and our max. elevation was 4,390'.

Epilogue: This past Monday my podiatrist checked my "bunion foot" (left) and took X-rays. Just by looking at it should be no surprise that a medial deviated 1st metatarsal head could produce force vectors that its proximal tarsal bones (navicular & talus) cannot accommodate without undue wear on each's articular cartilage. My podiatrist suggested that I alter when I take my anti-inflammatory med for my neck to better jibe with the stress that hiking places on my ankle. I was quite upset that my sporadic double vision problem (I think it is neck related) manifested itself on the ride back to Maryville; I hope that the three appointments that I have with two ophthalmologists and one neurologist in the next 2-months will help ameliorate this facet of my dysfunction.

           

Post 2nd 900 Hike #23: Old Sugarlands + Manway to Rock House (et al.)

Three weeks ago Bob Bolinger, BZ Lane, and I attempted to find the "Rock House" but a snowy and relatively deep stream crossing precluded our doing so. Today a still somewhat cool day but one which did not follow incessant rains appeared to present a golden opportunity to find it. I met Bob at our meet-up site in Sevierville at 0830; he then drove to Gatlinburg to pick-up BZ and then it was on to the trail head of Old Sugarlands trail just across US 441 from Sugarlands Visitor Center.

After ~1.6 mi. there are two manways, one leading to a cemetery and the other "sort of" leading to our quest. We took brief sojourns both in and out in what once was a thriving community. After ~2 hours we reached the stream crossing that we were unable to cross 3-wks ago; it was relatively easy this time. Minutes later we reached the "Rock House"; I did not expect to see so much of this structure it still standing.

In the first picture Bob is probably looking at the fireplace on the opposite wall; in the background on the right remnants of single bed frames can be seen. Note the big rock that spans the width of the window; I would love to have seen how the builders of this structure were able to place it a that height. Although the wall with this window looks good from this vantage point, it is leaning precipitously away from the room; we can only hope that a working crew will be assigned to shore it up. However, since it is not particularly easy to get to walking, that is probably wishful thinking.

In the second picture the fireplace is visible; in it were remnants of what appeared to be an old gas stove; I assume that the latter was used only in its later days.

In the 3rd picture I was waiting for BZ and Bob to exit the structure from its ante room; the only picture that halfway was any good has BZ leading with Bob in the background.

Although the history of its existence is probably on file somewhere, we could only surmise. One idea is that the CCC built it in the 1920's or early 1930's, perhaps for one of their honchos. Another idea that crossed our minds is that it was a vacation and/or hunting home for a wealthy individual. Yes, the valley that we had traversed had many families living in it in the early 1900's; however, this "Rock House" is up the mountain a little and a bit more remote. (Although BZ plans to do further research on it, if any reader of this blog can enlighten this issue, I would love to hear from you. Its coordinates are: N 35 degrees 39.483 and W 083 degrees 36.753.

One might say that a manway is off-trail; however, a couple of times we got off the manway we were on when it intersected with what were remnants of a road. We then followed the latter to see if we could determine where it dead-ended at a stream; at this point we can assume that a bridge of some sort existed in the 1930's.

My GPS indicated that we had hiked only 6.53 mi. Nevertheless, even though it was not a very good workout, it was a most enjoyable hike. Moreover, since we finished somewhere between 1300 and 1400 hours, the Mountain Lodge in Gatlinburg would still be open and I could get my Reuben sandwich (in my ~one dozen times there, I have ordered it every single time).

Bob then took me to my Outback in Sevierville; although my neck is still very immobile and somewhat painful, I had no double vision on the trip from the Park nor on my trip home. However, I must admit that my "bunion-foot" is not a happy camper; I have an appointment with my podiatrist prior to next week's hike.