This blog covers my Smoky Mountain hikes; it also includes a link to pictures from one of my cross country ski ventures.

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Post 900 Hike #37: Lakeshore, White Oak Branch, Forney Creek, Spring House Branch, Noland Creek





Today’s hike was one needed by several individuals working to join the 900 Mile Club (Bob Bolinger, Janetta Baker, Richard Ryburn, Diane Scarborough, & Charlie Woodward) as well as several others doing post-900 mile hikes (Cecil Rowe, John Kennerly, Amy Howe, Lowell Reid, and me). I arrived at Cecil’s at 06:40; as soon as John Kennerly arrived we set out to SVC in Cecil’s van. At SVC Bob joined us and the others proceeded in Charlie’s and Richard’s vehicles. Richard’s car was left at the Noland Creek parking lot on Lakeview Drive (hike's terminus); we then proceeded 0.7 mi. in two vehicles to the parking lot just prior to the tunnel.

At 9:45 we embarked on the first leg of our hike on Lakeshore Trail; I completed this 1.9 mi. section at 10:15. At 10:21 Amy, Richard, Lowell and I set out on the 1.8 mi. section of White Oak Branch; I completed this at 10:54. Here we waited for the rest of our group who had done the longer Lakeshore and Forney Creek sections. Our group of 10 then set our on a 1.3 mi. section of Forney Creek; I arrived there at 11:48. All of us ate our lunches at this point; the first picture presents our group and the second is a nearby very substantial fireplace from what used to be a settler's home. At 12:20 we set out on a 4.2 mi. section of Spring House Branch; I completed it at 13:50. It was rather tough in that there was a bit of up (~1500 ft); I wanted an aerobic workout and got it. (I got my HR to 142 thrice, 2 other times to 144, and once to 145.) John K. took the picture of me standing by the trail sign; at 14:38 we began this 2.8 mi. section of Spring House Branch Trail; we completed it at 15:39. At this point Cecil, John, and I set out on the very flat 4.1 mi. section of Noland Creek (a one-time road); we moved and arrived at the Noland Creek parking lot at 16:53.








Because Cecil’s vehicle was at the parking lot by the tunnel, I volunteered to go get it and John went with me (~0.7 mi. trek). When we returned Lowell was there; since Lowell could pass on the word about Cecil, John, and me, we were able to start our trip home without waiting for the remaining six to complete the hike. I arrived home 7:30.

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Post 900 Hike #36: Wet Bottoms, Abrams Creek, Hatcher Mtn., & Cooper Rd

Because of rain Wed. we changed our hike to Thursday; the weather was nice. Cecil Rowe picked up John Hutsenpiller and me at Lakeside Market at 07:30. At 8:40 we arrived at Cooper Rd. Trailhead on the Cades Cove loop. After 0.2 mi. we came to the Wet Bottoms Trailhead and proceeded on it. The latter trail is somewhat of an enigma if you follow The Brown Book that can get you on the horse trail as well as other manways (see my initial report); however, one can also avoid this and pass the Elijah Oliver Place. We did the latter went into the house as well as looking over the other buildings. We arrived at the Abrams Falls Trailhead at 9:10.

We went to Abrams Falls (this was John’s first view of it); we then proceeded on the trail to the point of our planned crossing of Abrams Creek. The water was perhaps even higher than on my solo first crossing a couple of years ago in which I was a little scared; however, last fall in the dry spell it was so low that I rock hopped it. We donned our water shoes and looked for places to cross; the current was exceptionally swift. After we had each tried to cross (I tried two different spots and John broke one of his poles on his attempt), we decided that it was too dangerous and that we should do an alternate hike. (We had originally planned to cross the creek, do Hannah Mtn Trail to its junction with Rabbit Creek Trail, and then come in on the latter to the Abrams Creek parking area. That is sort of what I did on my solo hike a couple of years ago; however, I did Cooper Rd. and Hatcher Mtn trails, and then after Rabbit Creek spent an exceedingly long time on the 1.0 mi. Wet Bottoms Trail.) Since Cecil had done everything else in the area for his Geezer Map, I suggested that we do Hatcher Mtn Trail (2.6 mi.) over to Cooper Rd Trail and then do its 5.5 mi. section which would take us back to Cecil’s van. Although this increased our hike a little bit, all the trail miles would be new for John.

Hatcher Mtn Trail is kind of pretty does have a few ups. Cooper Rd Trail got sort of boring by the time we finished it. At 14:45 had hiked ~13.2 miles and had arrived at Cecil’s Van. There was a bit of traffic on the way out of the Cove; tourists get so excited about deer.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Post 900 Hike #35 Rich Mountain & Indian Gap Grave Trails

Today’s hike was short because it had to be scheduled around our hiking groups’ annual Chili Luncheon. In the past this has been held at Debbie and Richard Way’s home; today it was held in The Barn (a cantilever structure that Richard assembled from old and new parts); it serves as an event center in Townsend. The group hike was an in-and-out on Chestnut Top; I chose to do a hike needed by Bob Bolinger (for his 900) and Cecil Rowe (for his Geezer [post-age 65] 900); this was an in-and-out on Rich Mtn (2.3) and the Eastern section of Indian Grave Gap Trail (1.8) for a hike totaling 8.2 mi.

Cecil picked me up at 7:30 at the Market (junction of U.S. 129 & Topside Rd). We then proceeded to the Back Porch Restaurant in Townsend. Bob Bolinger and BZ Lane were already there; Janetta Baker and Amy Howe arrived shortly. Everyone boarded Cecil’s van and we proceeded on Rich Mountain Rd. to the Park.

At 8:35 we began our 2.3 mi. section of Rich Mtn Trail. Near the end of the trail I made a quick sojourn to Campsite 5. Then as I got back on the trail and approached the trail sign for Indian Grave Gap Trail at 09:25, somewhat to my surprise a doe was standing by it ~60 ft ahead of me; she watched me as I proceeded slowly (did not take my camera because it was such a short hike—bad decision). Then a somewhat larger Buck charged past her on her far side; she accompanied this truly muscular specimen up a ridge. BZ was also impressed with the size of the latter. I had a good workout for this trail presented ~1,000 ft. gain and I had covered it in 52 min. Although not sure when I started, by 10:11 I had covered the 1.8 mi. section of Indian Grave Gap Trail (this trail presented both ups and downs). On the return Indian Gap took me 34 min. (again I went for a cardio). In 55 min. several of us had completed the 2.3 mi. of Rich Mtn Trail. When everyone was back we proceeded to The Barn; ~100 were in attendance.

Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Post 900 Hike #34: Goldmine Loop & Lakeshore Trails


















NOTE: Obviously a problem turning pics 90 degrees CC; will endeavor to rectify.

This particular hike had several logistical considerations; it was to begin with a boat trip to Campsite #77 followed by a 16.6 mi. hike on Lakeshore Trail to Lakeview Drive (Road to Nowhere/Tunnel). I had advised the hike organizer (Janetta) that I could take hikers to the Fontana Marina and then drive to the tunnel and hike in to meet the others; thus it did not surprise me that I was called upon to do this. Cecil Rowe (with whom I have been alternating driving for many hikes) suggested that he drive and that I in turn drive his vehicle (it could hold 7) to the tunnel after he and the rest of his load embarked on the boat.

Cecil picked up John Hutsenpiller and me at Lakeside Market (a locale close to both of our homes) at 06:15; John Kennerly was with him. We went to Central Station in Maryville and added Martha Norton and Glen Howard to our passenger list. Four vehicles then proceeded on the Dragon (U.S. 129) to the Lake Fontana Marina. Then 17 hikers went to the dock ~08:00; Ellie Doughty and I then left for the tunnel. (We thought that Bob Bolinger was going to pick up Janetta’s SUV; Bob Frink was driving the 4th but he did not take a direct route.)

Ellie and I arrived at the tunnel ~09:15 and then waited awhile in case Bob came; at 09:30 we set out on our hike. Rather than walking through the Tunnel (we would be going through it on our return), Ellie suggested that we start out on the Tunnel Bypass Trail; when we reached its junction with Goldmine Loop Trail we took the latter; this added 1.8 miles. However, we had plenty of time and it really did not matter where on Lakeshore Trail that we met the first contingent of the 17 hikers who had taken the boat. Goldmine Loop Trail is kind of a neat trail and this was only the second time that I had hiked it. I must admit that when I was working on my 1st 900 I was driven for my mission was just to complete all trails in the GSMNP quickly; thus I often missed much of the beauty. In the 1st picture Ellie is standing by a chimney that is in markedly good condition for its age. The 2nd picture is of a wild boar trap; the yellow material in it is corn bait. (Boars are not indigenous to the park and do much damage.) We also took sojourns to a couple of campsites slightly off trail; Ellie is considering the goal of staying at each campsite in the Park after she finishes the AT.

After ~4 miles on Lakeshore Trail we ate lunch (~12:20); in our first post-lunch mile we met those leading the contingent of 17; the first group included Cecil, John H., Glen, and Kim Inman. (We learned then that Bob Bolinger arrived ~15 min. after Ellie and I left the parking lot; however, he took the direct route and thus was able to be ahead of us on Lakeshore Trail.) On our trek to the tunnel I initially went ahead for an aerobic workout but only got my pulse up to 139. I waited a little while; Kim had separated herself from the others and then she and I hiked together for the last 4-5 miles. In the process we met a Park Law Enforcement Ranger (not sure of exact title)where Tunnel Bypass Trail intersected with Lakeshore Trail; she said she was just out for some exercise but she was armed and may have been on a mission too for she asked us if we had seen anyone at two campsites.

At 16:00 Kim and I had just come through the tunnel and arrived at the lot where our vehicles were parked. (The distance that Ellie and I had covered on our in and out was 12.25 mi.; those taking the boat hiked 16.6 mi.) As others of the group of 17 straggled in, we noted another Park Law Enforcement Ranger head for the tunnel; he carried two weapons.) After the vehicles of Ellie, Cecil, and Bob had their passengers, we headed back the way we came. Cecil dropped Martha and Glen off at Central Park and John and me at Lakeside Market shortly before 19:00.




Saturday, March 01, 2008

X-C Ski Interlude


Snow closed down much the GSMNP on 2/26. I had agreed to do a tunnel hike with others on 2/27; however, since U.S. 441 to Cherokee was closed (we needed it to get to our starting point at the Tunnel near Bryson City NC) that hike too was cancelled. On 2/27 I was able to talk Manfred Grote into XC-skiing with me; on 2/28 Joel Morris accompanied Manfred and me (both Manfred and Joel are in our hiking group).

Feb. 28:
I picked up Manfred at the Lowes Parking lot (TN 168 & US 441 intersection) and we arrived at the Sugarlands Visitor Center (SVC) a ~13:00; U.S. 441 had just opened (it’s the N-S route through the Park from SVC to the Oconaluftee VC near Cherokee NC). Normally I ski starting at Newfound Gap on the wintertime-closed road to Clingmans Dome; however, Manfred had not used his equipment since he lived in Northern Indiana and wanted to check it out. There was also the 30 min. drive to the Gap and 30 min. return to SVC.

I drove to Elkmont for we figured Little River Trail would be OK; this follows what used to be a road when the Elkmont community was privately owned. Unfortunately much of the good snow cover had melted when we arrived (low elevation and sun). We skied only ~2 miles in and then returned; we even had to carry our skis on much of the return trek. That is Manfred in the picture. I was glad that Manfred was game for skiing again Friday, and that Joel would go with us.

Feb. 29:
Today Manfred and Joel picked me up 10:00 at Lowes. Although U.S. 441 had closed overnight, it was due more to icing of melt and was open when we arrived shortly before 11:00. The temperature was 44 degree when we left; by the time we got to Newfound Gap it was 28 degrees. I was on the trail (i.e., Newfound Gap to Clingmans Dome Rd) ~11:30; because I had my boots on and there was quite a wind chill there, I skied to a wind-sheltered area to wait for them.

The snow conditions were truly excellent! Even though the snow was not much more than 6 inches there, there was a dusting that even made it easy if you skied in the tracks of backpackers. (The last time that I had skied the 7+ miles to the top, I was breaking trail and the snow was too deep to follow the footpaths of backpackers.) When Manfred reached me, he was elated about the conditions; although he has lived in Knoxville several years, he had never realized that XC-ski conditions could be this good in the Park and had never tried to ski here. I went ahead a little and caught a young back packer from Alabama; he planned to take Forney Creek Trail from the Dome to Campsite 68. After a couple of nights out he planned to return to his car at Newfound Gap; I hope that he is doing OK for the temp really gets cold at night. In skiing in the past, I have only seen backpackers going to or from the Appalachian Trail at Clingmans Dome.

I waited for Manfred and Joel to see when they wanted to eat lunch and how far they wanted to go; by this time I had put my parka in my bag. Manfred was still elated about the ski conditions and he wanted to go on; Joel seemed to be having a problem (to be explained later). Shortly after we reached Fork Ridge trailhead (2.5 mi. from our start), we came to a 0.75 mi. section that actually descends (this is really a bummer when one skis to the Dome and then on the descent you hit this “up-section”). Manfred wanted to keep on going so we did; however, we had soon lost Joel. I thought it was best to go back (we had probably gone ~3.5 mi. at this point). When we reached Joel we found that the sole of one of his boots was detached up to the instep; we went a little further “up” to a slightly sheltered spot and ate lunch.

After lunch I went ahead and really made good time; I went almost as fast as I did on my solo trip 3 weeks ago when there was a crust on the snow and one seldom made tracks. With the exception of that trip, usually one has to ski (i.e., move the legs) going down; today for many stretches I just used my arms with an occasional shift step that I use to accelerate. When I got back to Manfred’s Jeep I put on my parka and had some trail mix. A couple families came to play with their children in the snow; this is typical in the first ¼ mile or so. The wait seemed quite long and I was about to retrace my steps when Manfred arrived; he told me that Joel was moving slowly because he had totally lost the sole of one boot and thus was stepping with one foot and skiing with the other. I tied Joel’s hiking boots around my neck and was ready to go back to him when he came around the corner near our starting point.

Manfred and I had a great time; Joel enjoyed it but to a lesser extent. Because I had loaned my wife my digital camera today (she needed it for her real estate business), I could not take any pictures. Although it was cloudy and even snowed a smidgeon as re were driving down from Newfound Gap, there were some unique views. Today I could see cars on the switchbacks of U.S. 441 in NC; I do not think that they had ever been that distinct previously.