Post 900 Hike #92: Alum Cave to Mount LeConte (in/out 10.2)

This is a hike that Bob Bolinger and I planned to do on 12/23; however, that was also the first day U.S. 441 was open and thus X-C skiing took precedence (i.e., when there is good snow one should use it). Thus Bob’s and my hike to LeConte was rescheduled to 12/30.

We met at SVC at 09:00; we decided to hike to LeConte in and out on Alum Cave Trail rather than move one vehicle to Rainbow Falls parking lot. Because there were just two of us (ideally we hike with 3 or more), we knew that Alum Cave Trail would also have more hikers; however, if we went down Bullhead or Rainbow Falls Trail, we might have not seen anyone. We started ~09:30 after putting on our STABILicers (a brand of crampons for walking on ice & snow) in the parking lot; we knew that we would have ice and at least some snow.

I was really looking forward to this hike because I wanted to get more “hiking in the snow pictures” for my presentation at Wilderness Wildlife Week (WWW) on January 11th; because LeConte had ~30” snow 1.5 weeks ago, it should be a good day for pictures. Bob and I had hiked to LeConte ~3 years ago with icy conditions; I had also done this hike ~one year ago but ice was nominal. I assumed that there would be better pictures available today; I was not disappointed.

I was able to get many "ice pictures" for my WWW presentation but will share only three here. The first presented shows some of thick ice that we encountered. You'll note that the cable hand-hold is obviously not made for winter hikers, for it is present for only a fraction of the length of trail depicted.



In the second picture you'll note several reluctant and unprepared hikers that I had just passed; I noted one in particular who appeared to be quite scared. It was this young woman or one of her cohorts who asked a cohort if it was worth going on if one of them could be killed? I was glad to note that they discontinued their trek to LeConte and began retracing their steps; the state of the trail today was such that only experienced hikers with good equipment (i.e., top-notch crampons--I found hiking sticks to be particularly helpful too) should make this hike.



As we gained altitude, snow replaced ice on the trail. I was leading when Bob asked me to turn around and then step around a bend so that I was in full view; I was somewhat astonished when he sent this picture to me for I never realized how close I was to a rather steep drop-off. (Note: This picture was not added until 1/30/10.)



The last picture was made after Bob and I reached LeConte. To our surprise there was a group of teens eating at one of the picnic tables there; we chose to eat out of the wind on a porch of a cabin. Also to our surprise a few who we had passed arrived while we were eating lunch (although Bob and I never fell, some of these did--one said he walked on his knees when no guy-wires were available). While we were eating the group of teens passed below us; because their equipment suggested that they were novices, I assumed that they had come to LeConte via the Boulevard trail and I hoped that they would go down Bullhead or Rainbow Falls so we would not see them again (i.e., they appeared to be an accident about to happen).



I took only two pictures on the way down. Bob spent a bit of time helping a couple; the wife who had fallen a bit was most appreciative (husband did not communicate much). We tried to discourage several groups of hikers by warning them that the ice conditions were extremely severe without STABILicers or something comparable. Our advice appeared to bounce off one father with a teenage daughter and a son of ~8 years; however, I think his wife understood me. Again, although Bob and I had a very enjoyable hike, we had appropriate equipment and were experienced hikers. Unfortunately some folks do not understand that an element of danger can exist on this hike when it is icy, and particularly when they do not have good equipment. We hope that there will not be any report of 12/30 hiking accidents on the Alum Cave Trail; I would like to see some warning posted at trail head about how dangerous this trail can be in the winter if one does not have appropriate equipment.

Shortly before we finished our hike, we passed the group of teens that we had seen at LeConte; two young men were supporting a young woman who had sustained a knee injury. To our surprise they had gotten to LeConte via Alum Cave Trail; I am certain that members of that group sustained a number of falls prior to the one resulting in injury.

We arrived at my SUV ~17:00. With all the stops for pictures, helping and warning others, we did not break any speed records. In the parking lot there were two church vans; they were apparently waiting for the teens who were moving quite slowly with their injured cohort. I still worry about the family with the teen-age daughter and young son; the father in this family was truly devoid of common sense.

X-C Ski Interlude 12-23-09

This past weekend the GSMNP received quite a bit of snow. At Newfound Gap the depth was 20” and at LeConte it was more than 30”. Although no one reports from Clingmans Dome, the highest peak in the GSMNP, we assumed it was close to that received at LeConte since their elevations are comparable.

Because X-C skiing typically takes precedence for me since one should use the snow when it is there, on Monday instead of running on campus I went to the Park; although I knew that U.S. 441 was closed when I left my house, I assumed that if the road did not open, I could find somewhere else to ski. To make a long story short, U.S. 441 never opened and my forays at finding ski-able snow at lower elevations failed. I then decided to go on Tuesday after I heard that U.S. 441 opened; however, it did not open until afternoon and driving to the Park then was not feasible. (Because of black ice, U.S. 441 closed later on Tuesday afternoon too.) Although I had planned to hike to LeConte on Wed. with Bob Bolinger to repeat our “ice hike” of a couple of years ago, he agreed to postpone it a week in order that I might give X-S one more try today. (Ice is usually present on this hike; however, when it snows one must make use of it. I am wanting to get more X-C ski pictures and snow-ice pictures for my presentation at Wilderness Wildlife Week on 1-11-09.)

Doug and I decided to delay until 09:00 our departure to increase the possibility that U.S. 441 would be open when we got to it. I picked him up at Food Lion at 09:00; although our Wed. hiking group was there, we alone set out to ski. When we arrived at U.S. 441 ~10:10, somewhat to my surprise it was open and we proceeded to Newfound Gap. When we arrived at the barricaded road to Clingmans Dome ~10:40, no one else had parked there yet. In our first couple of hundred yards of the road we saw remnants of the activity there on Tues. afternoon; there were even some X-C ski tracks but these ended prior to Indian Gap. (Doug is standing by its placard; this ~1.5 mi. from our start.)



The next two pictures, although not great, give a little idea of the scenery (including our ski tracks).





My new skis were working fine; unfortunately Doug found that his older skis were experiencing a similar fate as my old ones did on 03/05/09 (i.e., not gliding very well). Because Doug was going to the Vol BB game, our goal was to reach Fork Ridge trailhead before we turned around. The snow was deep (probably the deepest that I had ever encountered on Clingmans Dome Road) and since we were breaking trail, our velocity was not that great. I suggested that after reaching the next big R-curve that we should have a snack and turn around even if we had not reached Fork Ridge trailhead. On the way down I did quite a bit of gliding; however, Doug really had to work much harder than I.

We reached my SUV ~14:20; by this time there were ~6 vehicles parked there. The trip back was fairly uneventful; unfortunately the snow hanging on trees over U.S. 441 on our trip up was not there on our trip down. Some day I'll learn to take the picture when you have it.

POst 900 Hike #91: AT, Dry Sluice, Grassy Branch, Sweat Heifer, & AT (13.6 mi.)

Today’s hike was the AT East from Newfound Gap (1.7, 1.0, 1.7), Dry Sluice 1.3, Grassy Branch 2.5, Sweat Heifer 3.7, and AT 1.7. This is a hike that Doug Jerger had requested; my e-mail announcement of this Alternate Hike drew Debra Barton, David Smith, and Cecil Rowe.

In two vehicles we left Food Lion at 07;50, David Smith (I just added him to our hiker e-mail list ~one month ago) wanted to drive since he was not sure that he was returning to Food Lion; Cecil road with him. Doug drove with Debra and me as passengers.

We arrived at Newfound Gap at 09:15; at 09:18 we were on the AT. We completed the 1.7 mi. section at 09:48; in the 1.0 mi. section we took a few pictures and completed it at 10:24 (pic #1: NC with US 441 visible).



The 1.7 mi. section began shortly after the Icewater Springs shelter; it was here that we were expecting, and we found, considerable ice on the trail. (In the pic the "white stuff" is thick ice; with the slope I doubt that even Stabilicers would have been too helpful and we did a few detours).



Because David had never been to Charie’s Bunyon, we took a sojourn there. In front of the "buyon" from left to right are Doug, David, Cecil, and Debra.



We then did Dry Sluice followed by lunch. Grassy Branch was the next trail; it, like Dry Sluice, had a short section that totally slid down the slope. On Sweat Heifer I pushed in the first couple of miles of a 3.7 mi. trail (with 2700’ gain); however, I only got my HR to 144. Although the remainder of the trail was basically up, it was interspersed with level areas so I decided that I had had my aerobic workout. (Debra, and Doug joined me in this endeavor.)

We met numerous young people (e.g., in their 20’s) working on Sweat Heiffer trail (they were paid from the stimulus funds). We marveled at the exceptional work that they were doing; these steps just represent a fraction of what they had done. In talking with them we learned that locust is the wood of choice for steps; however, if it is not available, they use spruce.



After hunkering down we waited for the rest of our group. The temperature had dropped ~20 degrees. After getting back on the AT I stopped to dig out my heavier gloves from my daypack, when I caught up with my group I evidently was a little careless in stepping down and slipped on ice and did a quick tumble. I was extremely lucky that breaking one hiking stick was the only penalty (fortunately I had no residuals the next morning).

Believe we arrived at vehicles at Newfound Gap ~16:30; I arrived home at 18:15. I was most pleased with today's hike for I added several new pictures on "trail ice" and and one on rime frost for my presentation at Wilderness Wildlife Week in Pigeon Forge on January 11 (title of latter is X-C Skiing and Hiking in Snow in the GSMNP.